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| John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife striking the cutting table. With traditional knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The collection combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in world-class shoemaking.
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